Pruning Tips For Japanese Maples
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Listed below are a few pruning techniques and how they may be applied to various situations that may arise. |
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Thinning |
In the Bay Area, we find that our mild winters and springs bring on a tremendous flush of spring growth. Typically this growth contains clusters of elongated branches that are thin and soft, often misrepresenting the natural growth habit of the tree. When allowed to grow like this for a few seasons, the plant takes on a very bushy or weedy look. These branches should be removed, leave only the most sturdy. From these, select branches that will help you to create the shape that you want; remove everything else. This can be done at any point during the year. |
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Tip Pruning |
Tip pruning can be used to shorten a seasons worth of growth effectively slowing the growth rate of the plant. Removal of 1/2 to 3/4 of the new growth is not uncommon when trying to limit the size of a plant. |
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Corrective Pruning |
This
technique is used to prevent or remove growth that could
possibly be the source of problems in the years to come.
Branches that cross or rub against one another can open the
plant up to disease infection. Remove one of the offending
branches. Choose the weaker or least desirable branch for
removal. |
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Crown Reduction |
This type of pruning is done to reduce the size of an overgrown plant. This drastic type of pruning should be avoided by combining the techniques listed above as the plant matures. When other options are not available here is what you do. Shorten one third of the major branches (up to 3" in diameter) by one third of their length. It is best to do this over a two year period. Balance the removal of the branches throughout the canopy, avoid removing the branches from one side then the other. This pruning should be done only in the dormant season. |
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